YORKING Brake Pipe Repair Kit 3/16" Pipe Flaring Tool Kit 25FT Car Brake Line 10mm Replacement Cutter Bender Brake Line Repair Kit for Car Original Braking System

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Complete Accessories] Brake line pipe repair kit includes brake pipe + pipe cutter + 10* joint + pipe bender + 7* flaring tool.

Almost every modern European car will now use the metric single DIN flare (except some 'classic' Land Rovers and Jaguars). of 3/16" Copper Brake Line with Fittings, can be used in hydraulic pipeline, fuel pipeline or brake pipeline, etc. If you're flushing the system then continue until you start to see the new fluid flow out of the nipple and down the pipe. You, may need to replace it with cupro nickel pipe which is significantly more maleable and far easier to flare. Compact European Pressure Brake Bleeder, perfect for a direct fit to you MINI master cylinder to bleed the system after replacing the lines.Before you put the wheels back on and lower the car to the ground you need to check everything you replaced in situ - this includes clips, pipes, bolts and screws. As expected they were perfectly sound, just the plastic film cracking and some surface rust with some light pitting.

but copper grease has never caused me any issues unless I've accidentally allowed it to contaminate the pipes.The cretinous old duffer known as Scotty Kilmer actually shows how to repair a brake line using these in one of his videos, despite the packet being clearly marked as not suitable for brake lines!

Before bending anything, check the pipe is all in the right place and roughly following the original brake line path (again don't get it the wrong side of any parts of the frame). be aware the budget dregs flare tools struggle to flare steel pipeThats what I thought you would get with the kit I linked to but it looked different, but looking closer at the picture the female coupler might be a back to back one but its only 7mm long, the pictures aren't very clear.How much to get it done - probably a small fortune knowing garages, that's why I always do my own repairs no matter how hard they are to do. I make no claim and disclaim all warranties, implied or absolute, that the information on this site is correct, complete, accurate or up to date.

Now working under the car at the rear you should be able to pull the pipe through and feed it up over the subframe, following the path of the original brake line and threading it around obstacles until it pops out under the rear wheel arch. If any air bubbles are left in the brake lines your brakes will not work properly and will feel spongy when you press the brake pedal. Now this has to be the worst pipe to replace as it appears to run under the fuel tank to the passenger side then to the ABS module.Once you have completed the sequence, carefully depress the brake pedal in the car 5 or 6 times, then go back around and bleed each brake nipple again in sequence. These fitments are notorious for welding themselves together - this is where the penetrating oil (WD40 or similar) and flare spanners come in. Using a flare spanner (do not use a standard spanner or you may round off the nut), unscrew the brake pipe you will be removing from the junction box. Bleeding is a simple procedure that involves forcing brake fluid through the system from front to back while you open and close every bleed nipple (remove their rubber dust covers first!