Tamiya 87089 Airbrush Cleaner 250ml, 87089

Product Information

For lots of folks, they get all tooled up and ready to airbrush and it occurs to them that they’re going to need to clean their airbrush during paint sessions in between color changes and then thoroughly clean it after their painting session is over.

I keep another 3/4 full old green top bottle with the brush removed as a brush cleaner next to the glue bottle. This Iwata Medea Airbrush Cleaner works well but like many name brand products, it’s absurdly expensive. The Quick Setting Extra Thin Cement cannot be used this way because it evaporates almost instantly giving you no chance to attach the parts where they belong. I personally prefer the Quick Setting version because the original sometimes takes too long to cure and therefore is prone to cause ghost seam lines if the model is assembled too quickly. now to clean it, first used water for blow though then X20, and when put x20 in had bubbles lots, bubbling back into cup and spewing out the x20.I’ve seen people use lots of different stuff including Windex and Simple Green, for cleaning airbrushes.

Yes, the parts will stay glued together after within seconds of application but it takes much longer to form a strong bond. If you leave the glued parts alone long enough before handling them again, the bond is very strong and it is in fact almost impossible to cleanly separate them again. Ethyl acetate is hotter than butyl acetate when it comes to melting plastic and also evaporates much more quickly.When doing clean outs and color changes I spray leftover paint, cleaner and water into one of these Iwata Medea airbrush cleaning stations. Even though the above process sounds a bit long winded, it actually only takes a couple of minutes each time and becomes sop much part of the proceedings, that you hardly notice it. This can be sometimes alleviated by gluing a small piece of plastic card to the other side of the joint line.

Great for getting the last of the acrylic paint from your brush even after you have cleaned it with water. I squirt a bit of this into the airbrush paint cup between color chang4es and run it through, then a bit of distilled water (you don’t have to use distilled water, but where I live the water is very hard and stains/scales up everything so I use distilled). This grease is for use in maintenance of the trigger button stem, its viscosity ensures smooth and controlled movement of the trigger and paint application. Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner works very well with the acrylic Vallejo Game Color which are a pain to airbrush. and whats the cause of that paint blob on the needle, this was simple medium size spray pattern, just laying colour down.You know its in there but tried, shaking and more shaking even soaking can in hot water but usually end up throwing can out! I use both Tamiya and Xtracrylic thinners all the time - mostly Xtracrylic thinner - and that works well for me in making the Tamiya flow well through the brush.

You can use it as a thinner too but it doesnt have the retarder in it like Tamiyas own thinners does , so its best to use their own stuff for thinning .I’ll be moving for Uni soon, so I will be leaving my leaving my almost empty bottle of extra thin at home, since I can get cement when I get there. I build too slow and prefer the old slow Testor’s Liquid Cement in a Tamiya bottle most of the time. Hi Laurie, thats my major problem, garage door closed its too gloomy, but as you say it never stays part open in the right place and the drive leading to the garage is a bit of a wind tunnel! One problem I had was the garage door which fitted in only various places allowing wind thro agitating dust. This wrench is compatible with all Spray-Work series airbrushes, and is used to remove the nozzle without damage.