Marley Bathroom Extractor Fan 5 Inch 5" In-line Ventilation Without Timer Flexible Ducting Kit Included Wall or Ceiling Mounted Kitchen Bathroom Shower Wet Room WC

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In this guide we take a look at how a timed fan unit or extractor fan with a built in timer is wired up, read on to find out exactly how. Safety Regulations for Electricity From the FCU, the 3-pole isolator switch is connected up using a suitable length of cable that’s stripped at both ends. It’s connected between the 2 units, neutral terminal to neutral terminal, live terminal to live terminal and earths to earths. If however an axial fan (one through the wall) is being installed this will need to go on an outside external wall. When it comes to the cable that should be used, as extractor fans are low voltage it’s possible to use 1mm or 1.5mm cable. Also, for timed unit extractor fans, as there is an extra cable you can use 3 core and earth, however if wiring a standard fan with no timed switch, 2 core and earth is fine. Again, if you are working on the ground floor then you may need to pop up some floor boards from above to run cables and access existing lighting circuits.

However, if you are simply replacing an existing extractor fan because it’s broken down or failed then you are allowed to do this under Part P. Once the fan is positioned, the next task is to get it wired up. A suitable length of cable is cut to run from the 3-pole switch out to the fan. This briefly covers the 2 main different types of extractor but for a full and detailed run down, see our types of extractor fan project here. Types of Bathroom Fan Switch Configuration When it comes to the type of extractor fan found in a bathroom there are essentially 2 different types; time switched and non-time switched. The main difference between the 2 is that with a timed switch, when the unit is turned off it will run on for a set amount of time to finish clearing the bathroom and when the time expires it then turns itself off.A 4-termial junction box is required to connect up the fan, 3-pole switch and the pull switch, and is wired similarly to a ceiling rose or light junction box, utilising connections for earth, neutral, (permanent) live and a switch-live. For both different types of units they can also be tuned on and off through normally 2 different means; they are either wired into the light, so that when it’s turned on the extractor comes on also or they have their own dedicated switch, normally as an isolator outside the bathroom above the door or inside as a pull cord switch. We have concentrated on the actual wiring in this section, rather than the other elements of the installation. If you want to know about these, simply work through the steps in the section above. As there are several different ways that a timed extractor fan is wired up, here we will cover the most common method; Taking a power feed from an existing bathroom light.

An extractor fan is an essential part of any bathroom as it helps to remove the excess moist and humid air produced by the shower and keep any condensation build up to a minimum. If you are installing an inline fan then you will also need to install the associated pipework that will carry the moist air from the source to the outside.

Types of Bathroom Fan Switch Configuration

If it isn’t and there is no official evidence to prove it’s been done by a professional with the required qualifications then in the event of any issues it is likely that your home insurance won’t be valid and if you come to sell your home then this can again cause huge issues.

Firstly the supply from the 3-pole isolator switch should be connected in to the junction box using a suitable 1mm or 1.5mm twin and earth cable to the L, N and E terminals. A larger diameter hole (stated in the instructions) is drilled in the ceiling above the shower, bath etc. and the vent is inserted and fixed up after the end of the pipework is fixed. The same is done at the other end in a suitable location to vent the moist air, normally through a soffit closer or fascia board. Strip both ends of the cable to suitable lengths (manufacturer should state this in their instructions, if not see our stripping cable project here) and connect the switch end cable to the correct terminals. Again, if installing a axial fan through the wall you may need to chase out a section of wall to run the cable to the fan.

Safety Regulations for Electricity

Next, the fan should then be connected using 3 core and earth cable (depending on the model the earth may not be required), with the extra cable being used as the switch-live (SL). As with all electrical work, before anything is done at all, make sure that the circuit being worked on is fully isolated in the fuse box or consumer unit. To do so, either pull out the fuse or turn off the MCB. With most fans there will be 2 or 3 different settings that can be used. Once this is done, the circuit is isolated once more until the finish is completed. He then writes up and issues the works installation certificate. This wiring diagram shows an easy to follow configuration for a bathroom extractor fan fitted with a timer, that’s not going to be turned on by the existing light switch. Instead, we are going to install a new switch that will turn the fan on and off. Another point to be aware of is that in many installations a 3-pole isolation switch is fitted to the fan to allow it to be totally isolated from its electrical supply in the event it needs maintenance work.

As we have stated above, if an extractor fan is being installed from scratch then this will need to be done by a qualified Part P registered electrician. However is you are simply replacing an existing broken unit then you are able to do this yourself.

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When connecting up the pipework make sure that you first tape the pipe to the fan body using aluminium tape and then also screw up a large jubilee clip around the pipe. This will ensure a full and compete seal.