Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men's Fashion

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George was never unpowdered or unperfumed, immaculately bathed and shaved, and dressed in a plain dark blue coat, he was always perfectly brushed, perfectly fitted, showing much perfectly starched linen, all freshly washed, and composed with an elaborately knotted cravat. From the mid-1790s, Beau Brummell was the early embodiment of “the celebrity”, a man chiefly famous for being famous. The decision was taken not to exhibit this item within the timeframe of the exhibition because of its physically vulnerable condition. There was neither time nor capacity to carry out the necessary conservation work to display it safely, and we did not want to risk causing further irreparable damage to it. Kani’s resulting artwork A Whisper Behind the Grand Tour 2022, powerfully expresses the wider impact of such decisions, and highlights the complex questions we need to consider in deciding how to prioritise limited resources. Overall, the exhibition contrasts historic and contemporary fashion and provides a level platform for each of the art forms displayed.

Italian street photographer Daniele Tamagni’s Gentlemen of Bacongo series (main image) reveals the dandies in the Republic of Congo’s Brazzaville. They are known as ‘Sapeurs’, which Tamagni considers “a revolutionary movement, because dressing up is a way to escape and forget poverty”. And now, for all this perennial Martyrdom, and Poesy, and even Prophecy, what is it that the Dandy asks in return? Solely, we may say, that you would recognise his existence; would admit him to be a living object; or even failing this, a visual object, or thing that will reflect rays of light. [18] This dynamic exhibition and flexible engagement space supports our ambition to reimagine the costume and dress collection. Bringing this important resource into the heart of the city means that we can show it in the context of the wider collection and as an integral part of the story of art and culture.The counterpart to the dandy is the quaintrelle, a woman whose life is dedicated to the passionate expression of personal charm and style, to enjoying leisurely pastimes, and the dedicated cultivation of the pleasures of life.

Cult de soi-même, Charles Baudelaire, "Le Dandy", noted in Susann Schmid, "Byron and Wilde: The Dandy in the Public Sphere" in Julie Hibbard et al. , eds. The Importance of Reinventing Oscar: Versions of Wilde During the Last 100 Years 2002 Jones’ work speaks not only to the endurance of the 60s influence but also to the relevance of this exhibition at a time of innovation and redefinition in the world of men’s fashion. In Regency England, Brummel's fashionable simplicity constituted, in fact, a criticism of the exuberant French fashions of the eighteenth century" (Schmid 2002:83) Dandyism was then inherited by the Russians and with a blink of an eye, the ideology was spread all over the world. Historical Example of Dandies

Beyond that, a Dandy invests in top quality grooming products. A signature cologne, hand cream and various serums to keep his scent fresh and his hands well looked-after. For him, personal hygiene is of utmost importance. In "The Dandiacal Body", a chapter of the novel Sartor Resartus (1831), Thomas Carlyle described the dandy's symbolic social function as a man and as a persona of refined masculinity: Brummel was the one who was imitated mostly in France hence resulting in adapting the Dandy Style. The birth of many dandies influenced the Symbolist Movement in French Literature. D'Aurevilly, Barbey. "Du dandisme et de George Brummell" (1845) in Oeuvres complètes (1925) pp. 87–92. Here are some of the most interesting finds of the Dandy Style Exhibition: Sky blue silk damask banyan (1760-70)

But in the 18th century, if you were a wealthy aristocrat, bright colours and intricate patterns allowed you to display your wealth. As a result, wealth equates to power, and power equates to respect. The Manchester Art Gallery has a wide variety of banyans in different colours, styles, and patterns, depicted much better than this photo. Photo: Amelia Cole @ The Mancunion Vivienne Westwood striped suit (1991-2) In the late 18th century, British and French men abided Beau Brummell's dictates about fashion and etiquette, especially the French bohemians who closely imitated Brummell's habits of dress, manner, and style. In that time of political progress, French dandies were celebrated as social revolutionaries who were self-created men possessed of a consciously-designed personality, men whose way of being broke with inflexible tradition that limited the social progress of greater French society; thus, with their elaborate dress and decadent styles of life, the French dandies conveyed their moral superiority to and political contempt for the conformist bourgeoisie. [20]

Barbey d'Aurevilly, Jules. Of Dandyism and of George Brummell. Translated by Douglas Ainslie. New York: PAJ Publications, 1988.

Regardless, the Dandy Style Exhibition gives a glimpse of what societies in different time periods looked like. It’s not too late to give the Dandy Style Exhibition a look for yourself and delve into the wonders of men’s fashion. Photo: Amelia Cole @ The Mancunion To some extent, modern menswear directly embraces dandyism, from suit construction to the growing importance of grooming. Yet, whether you’re thinking traditionally or specifically in the present, not everything menswear falls within this scope. Instead, to become a modern dandy: Beau Brummell ( George Bryan Brummell, 1778–1840) was the model British dandy since his days as an undergraduate at Oriel College, Oxford, and later as an associate of the Prince Regent (George IV) — all despite not being an aristocrat. Always bathed and shaved, always powdered and perfumed, always groomed and immaculately dressed in a dark-blue coat of plain style. [13] Sartorially, the look of Brummel's tailoring was perfectly fitted, clean, and displayed much linen; an elaborately knotted cravat completed the aesthetics of Brummell's suite of clothes. In the mid–1790s, handsome Beau Brummell was a personable man-about-town who was famous for being famous; a man celebrated "based on nothing at all" but personal charm and social connections. [14] [15] Across the divided spaces, the steps of high fashion’s dance are implied, a sort of tango between conformity and individuality, formality and self-expression. It certainly makes for an enthralling spectacle, a static carnival. Mixing the historic with the contemporary, the exhibition highlights a range of examples from Manchester’s collections presented in two main sections: Tailored Dandy and Decorated Dandy.Charles Pierre Baudelaire – A French Poet was deeply interested in Dandyism and various times he wrote about it. According to him, “no profession other than elegance… no other status, but that of cultivating the idea of beauty in their own persons… The dandy must aspire to be sublime without interruption; he must live and sleep before a mirror.” The gallery mentions the ‘accidental’ and natural placement of the paint, as a result of Horsley’s artistic endeavours. However, it appears that the splodges of paint were predetermined meticulously and performatively to mimic an artist’s work outfit. Photo: Amelia Cole @ The Mancunion Red corded silk coat (1770-80) If you enjoy having all eyes on you, then go for a dandy look with bold colors and patterns. However, be sure not to pair too many bold patterns together as this could detract from the overall look. A gentleman avoids the faux pas of dressing over-the-top while making pairings and mixing accessories.